The Legendary Chef Who Pioneered Madison’s Local Food Scene

Back in early 1970s Madison, there was no farm-to-table movement. There was no farmers market downtown. The Capitol Square was a ghost town at night. There were no standards for organic, much less anything else.

None of that dissuaded Odessa Piper. The pioneering chef cut her teeth at Ovens of Brittany, creating the famous gooey, caramelly Morning Bun pastries (waay before the cronut was a twinkle in anyone’s eye, a heavenly mix of cinnamon roll and croissant was born). She went on to start L’Etoile restaurant, attracting national attention with her James Beard awards and showcase of the freshest food Madison had to offer. She was an early supporter of the Dane County Farmers Market, now one of the largest in the country. And she’s never stopped dreaming of a more delicious future.

Every Thursday, we’re talking about food and all of the flavors that make Madison. And who better to start with than the woman who helped start it all…

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